And in bright sun that requires more than a two-stop ND. And shots with shallow dof, which are very useful for isolating subjects, require wide apertures. Controllng aperture does more than affect exposure. I never have a need of anything more than that. The rest of the adjustment with ISO and apperture is sufficient. I ended up using a polarizer that has similar capability. At 125th shutter, I need a ND filter of 2 f/stops. The ISOs sometimes did not shift, in other words they did not increase or decrease. I used AUTO-ISO, but I got bad videos, maybe my GH6 was not configured well for it. I thought about it, but it is impossible for me because I would need to shoot for all the time in this way. Click on the link of signature to find out what I do, even if the videos I posted on youtube are just scraps. I ALWAYS shoot outdoors on sunny days or with some light clouds. Sometimes I just have time to raise the camera and focus and hit start. Additionally if you were on f4 and then go to f8 you get an further 2 stops.Īs I say that is a compromise for obvious reasons but it may not be important depending on your content and style, and it may be the difference between getting the clip and missing a critical moment.Īuto-ISO can be your friend as well especially if your camera can include auto-ISO exposure compensation whilst shutter and aperture are on manual. For example shooting indoors at 1/50th then moving rapidly outdoors to 1/400th gives you 3 full stops. Lat time I checked the magnetic ones seemed a good idea but relatively expensive and may interfere with a lens hood.Ī quick and easy compromise (shooting manual obviously) is to forget about ND filters and just vary your shutter speed. The cost soon builds up as well if you need to be able to use a variety of lense diameters. I have an old variable one but seldom use it. If you need to compensate for sudden changes in ambient light and you need to work quickly then ND filters are a pain whether they be fixed or variable. You have not said what type of video shooting you like to make. Put if a cloud shows up you might need to open the aperture. That means if you have too much light you can either close down the aperture or the shutter.įull sun day. Instead to change fixed ND filter you can change ISO (when the ISO change is not high). Nobody knows it.į/5.6 1/50 at ISO 800 on a white sandy mediterranean beach on a summery day and you might need both a fixed ND and a good VND. I have a big disappointment with GH6 on native ISOs. But in V-Log the minimum possible is automatically set to 250 ISO. A video guru told me to use the lowest ISO possible with the GH6 and V-Log in sunny days. In fact, nobody knows which native ISO has GH6. Perhaps even Panasonic does not know native ISO of GH6. I don't use a Panasonic but I thought it was 600 ISO. If you're shooting log you should check what the log is designed for. Since I shoot with V-Log and since the native ISO of the GH6 has never been understood, even if it seems that the native ISO is between 250 ISO and 800 ISO, so: if I shoot at 250 ISO on sunny days and use a fixed ND filter, instead of changing it, I can move the ISO from 250 to 400 ISO. Sure!! But I got better video quality with a fixed ND filter. In my opinion the filters are equivane in this modern era. I think it was right many years ago but not today. VNDs are basically the filter equivalent to zoom lenses prime lenses are sharper, have less distortion, and wider aperture, but sometimes you need the versatility of a zoom. I've mostly shot in run-n-gun scenarios, so I use an SLR Magic variable ND, but I just ordered a set of Firecrest IRNDs, as I plan to shoot more slower paced stuff. If you really wanted to use fixed NDs, you could get circular threaded NDs and magnetic filter rings, which would speed up swapping out filters, and still be smaller and lighter than 4x4 or 4x5.6 filters in a matte box.įor documentary type stuff that you shoot, an electronic variable ND in something like a Sony FS5 Mark II is probably the best balance between price, quality, speed, and versatility. VNDs can make exposure adjustments in sub 1/3 stop increments, as opposed to fixed NDs that are 1-stop increments. Fixed density NDs are generally best for commercials and narrative films, where you have more time to compose, light, and expose your shot. Variable NDs are generally the best option for things like documentaries and weddings, due to speed and versatility. Variable NDs aren't all created equal some are garbage, and some are almost as good as fixed NDs.
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